“I have a different view,” my wife said. “This is my
country, and I see the problem differently.
“I live in Colombia now too, and I can prove it.” I laughed.
“I got the exit tax receipt right here in my pocket. It’s gone up too. It used
to be 63,000 pesos, and today, I paid 70,000. It cost more and more to be a
Colombian and fly out of the country. A tourist gets a tax exemption and doesn’t
have to pay.”
“Maybe you should not have married a Colombiana and got you
residency visa,” she said.
“Well, maybe not, but I did, and my point is that now I have a right to express my opinion. I am just saying that I didn’t like the culture of indifference, lack of good service and trash everywhere that I saw in Cartegena and especially in La Boquilla. I have started to think about poor people and poverty like a Republican and “los Ricos,” as you call them, who live on the north side of Bogotá.”
“I didn’t like seeing all the trash and lack of order in La Boquilla either. I just think the problem is more profound than you do,” she said.
“I hate that, after our trip to Cartagena, I’ve started thinking like a republican, but I think the problem down there is really simple and has nothing to do with the extreme poverty of the people who live in La Boquilla.”
“La Boquilla has a lot of problems caused by no jobs, and the government is not doing anything to help. The government is so corrupt. They steal all the money,” she said. “You see Colombia through the eyes of a gringo—a rich gringo.”
“I’m not rich, but you’re right,” I said. “I couldn't see the beauty of Caribbean and the beach for all the trash. I just wanted all the people in La Boquilla to get up off their lazy butts and pick up the trash. I saw guys laying around in hammocks or sitting around playing dominoes next to piles of trash and plastic sacks and all kinds of other crap. I wanted to order them to get up and pick up the trash.”
“Well, I loved swimming in the ocean and seeing all the kites of the kiteboarders. The sunsets were beautiful. I saw the problems in La Boquilla as a lack of education and a problem of ingrained cultural indifference,” she said. “The government needs to do a better job, to instill civic pride, and maybe it will make a difference. People with little hope or prospects don’t worry about trash when they cannot even feed their kids.”
“Look, mi amor,” I said, “you are right. I agree that the problem is education. Their mothers should have taught those people to pick up the trash.”
“I was a good mother,” she said. “My son turned out to be
the best.”
“Yes he did,” I said. “You taught him to take out the trash,
at least most of the time.”
“I did a good job, and he is not lazy at all,” she said. “He
has his master’s degree. I just read his thesis, and it was beautiful.”
“No, he’s not lazy, unlike the people down there in La Boquilla.” I said. “Those people live along side the most beautiful beach on the Caribbean, and they have trashed it out. As soon as you come off the beach all you see is people sitting around on piles of trash.”
“I was concerned
about the health of the people and all the street dogs—about the human and
animal side of the problem,” she said.
“I want to go back. It is the best beach for kiteboarding in
all of Colombia. I just don’t want to see all the trash. I want the people to
get off their lazy asses and pick up the trash and make their town beautiful.
It’s got nothing to do with poverty and everything to do with lazy.”
“David, you are obsessing.” She laughed. ”Get over it.
Relax.”
“Well, I want you to write a letter to the La Boquilla chamber of commerce and tell them to clean up the town, to get organize, and to get busy with picking up the tons of plastic sacks before I go back. I want to kiteboard and suntan on the beach and don’t want to see trash everywhere.”
“Stop it, David.” She laughed. “You are stressing yourself
out.”
“Well, I mean it.” I laughed. “You remember when we were
walking on the beach, and all those guys came running out of those run down and
terrible looking restaurants that lined the street next to beach and tried to
sell us lunch every five minutes? What American would eat in a place that
looked like it was falling down, filthy and littered with trash—terrible?”
“It’s time to go through
customs.” She laughed. “Have a good trip back to your clean and organized
Florida.”
“I wanted to tell them what to do, how to make their places
inviting, and how to make some money. I wanted to tell them to clean their
places up.”
“I think they are calling your flight, David.” She laughed again. “You need to stop thinking about trash and La Boquilla.”
“I don’t want to go,” I said. “I don’t want to leave.”
“You’ll be back in a month, baby,” she said.
“I don’t want to go,” I said.
“Come back when you want. I’ll be waiting for you, and I’ll
get Colombia all cleaned up before you get back I promise. I love you,” she
said.
I looked at her long and hard. I did not want to board my
flight and fly away from Colombia. We hugged goodbye, and she turned and walked
away. I stood for a minute and watched her walking toward the exit. I
turned and made my way toward the uniformed woman who was checking passenger’s Id’s
and the immigration officers waiting in their cubicles beyond.
I didn’t look back again, but I wanted too. I would be in
Fort Lauderdale at seven pm and in a different world and a different life. I
didn’t want to go.



